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A boatman in Lobo, Batangas, for example, may tell a story about the best goto in town.
Our mothers may tell us stories about childhoods marked by the sweetness of merienda, or the brisk and garlicky smell of sinangag in the morning. Our food stories have always been about an ongoing conversation on the ingredients, techniques, influences, tastes, and memories that bind us together.
Perhaps this is why the best stories about Filipino food are both deeply personal and universal. Each of us has our own food stories, and each of our stories are part of an interwoven canopy of tales that define what Filipino food culture is: wonderfully varied, satisfying, and ultimately a beautiful thing, the subject of unending marvel and fascination.
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CNN Philippines Life lists six essential books that tell compelling stories of Filipino food culture, with the recognition that this is by no means an inclusive or complete list — but only an attempt to start another conversation on why we love food, and which food stories we love hearing over and over again. The old ways are tested and true; the new ways are not necessarily betrayals, if they are appropriate and result in good food.
It was choosing the words that echoed, that reverberated — umaalingawngaw.
And then it was making the readers hear the silence between the echoes, and themselves load them with memory, sensation, and finally meaning. Celebrated food writers today dedicate their works to her; her words would continue to be spoken and read anew by cooks, anthropologists, journalists, and researchers. As recipes passed down from generations develop a life of their own, a dish becomes a catalyst, resurrecting memories long forgotten.
She also co-authored the book with her husband, chef Romy Dorotan.
Each memory is followed by various recipes and interesting tidbits about food origins or family rituals. Baunto, who hails from Lilod Madaya, Marawi, pens an extended love letter to his hometown, telling several beautiful stories anchored on recipes from the women in his family.
What holds the stories and recipes together is palapa: a condiment, appetizer, and flavoring agent basic to Maranao cuisine.
Published inbarely a year after the siege of the city, the book paints a Marawi deeply beloved by its people. Maria and Bryan Koh. Drawings and illustrations often take a supporting role, if any at all, in most food books published in the Philippines. More often, photos accompany stories. The dishes sampled in the book are almost always depicted to serve large families.
Garcia shows us that the act of eating in Filipino culture is largely communal, and food, among others, often functions as a channel for bonding and communication. Garcia, in using watercolor, also depicts dishes in the context of the home or community. The technique also softens bold colors and lends subtle textures to soups and assorted rich viands.
The book takes cue from the violent dispersal of the condiments factory workers of Nutri-Asia — who went on strike in to push for employment regularization — and tackles issues such as seed patenting, the rice liberalization law via comicsand insecurity in land tenure, among others. Whenever we reminisce about visits to farms, fishponds, or wet markets, does that not highlight the persons who produce our food? And when we appreciate how nature freely gives her bounty, or how we all share in the biodiversity of our food resources, is that not a recognition against corporate ownership of our native seeds and crops?
Insofar as it is ificant to document how food becomes identity, memory, culture, and heritage, the book recognizes the fragility of those relationships, by pointing out the powerful forces that threaten them. To preserve food as memory, identity, culture, and heritage, therefore, we have to act. This article has been edited on Dec. Updated Dec 3, PM. Two essay collections on Filipino food and culture, a book of stories and recipes from around the country, an illustrated guide to local food, a recipe book on Maranao cuisine, and a vegan recipe book that challenges how we consume food — these are six essential books that tell compelling stories of Filipino food and culture.